Tuesday, November 29, 2005
november update
Here’s a start for the list:
I killed chickens with my bare hands during the process of learning how to necropsy them.
I saw albatross and blue-footed booby chicks
I swam with clownfish and angelfish that seemed as big as my head on a reef full of colorful corals
I ate raw clams and shrimp in cebiche, this from the girl who hates seafood
I swam in the ocean without my bathing suit much to the delight of early-morning fishermen. At five in the morning after running for an hour strange things seem like good ideas.
I have 10 plants pressed, mounted, and preserved in an herbarium
I ran a half marathon (21 K) and actually ran the whole way, despite the altitude in Quito.
I learned how to collect semen from and subsequently inseminate rabbits
I successfully made an Ecuadorian dish that my host mom did not know how to make but that we both love: pan de yucca
I went to my first concert (popular concert, that is...I’ve been to lots of concerts of classical music)
There are more firsts, but these are the coolest (or grusomist as is the case with the chickens).
Selected elaborations:
The race: My friend Angie has been running basically since we got here but she always runs for an hour and I was convinced I could never run that far. So I had just been running around my house for under 30 minutes until one day about 2 months ago I decided to try and run the route that Angie uses. I ran most of the way and it took me about an hour and before I knew it I was getting up at 5am every day and running for an hour. Then about a month ago I saw an advertisement for a half-marathon that kicks off the Fiestas de Quito (a sort of week-and-a-half-long celebration of Quito’s independence). They had a relay option where you could split the race between two people and each would only run 10.5K. I thought it sounded really cool so I asked Angie if she wanted to do it with me and she said yes. We were all set to go when Angie started running two laps around the park that constitutes about half of our running route and decided she wanted to try the whole thing. So I conned Amelia into running the other half with me but then she decided she was going to go somewhere with her family that weekend so Angie convinced me that I should run the whole thing with her. We did a practice run the weekend before and Angie easily ran at least 21K but I gave up somewhere around 18. I had myself convinced that with the adrenaline from the race and Angie to distract me I could make it the last 3K on the day of the race. Then three days before the race something happened to Angie’s legs where it was painful even to walk (we think it might be shin splints) and she couldn’t run in the race so I ended up running the whole thing all by myself. I actually wasn’t even that tired until the last kilometer because the last two kilometers were a huge hill and by the last kilometer I wanted to stop so bad but then I thought: when is the next time I am going to run a half-marathon let alone a half-marathon in Quito? I tried really hard to convince myself that it wasn’t going to kill me to run one more kilometer and kept thinking about how cool it would be to actually run the entire half marathon and how mad I would be if I stopped in the last kilometer and suddenly I was crossing the finish line. It was crazy because there were so many people. I don’t know exactly how many people ran but many thousands of people at least. Saturday I had to pick up my registration packet and chip to monitor my time and it was a huge fiasco. I waited with Angie for two hours in the morning until we finally found out that the chips were being held hostage in customs and they wouldn’t be there until 2pm. So we came back at 4 and at that point Angie had decided not to run but I waited another 2.5 hours until I finally got the stupid chip. I was so mad a good part of me didn’t even want to run. But since I woke up at 5am anyway the next morning, and because I was really stubborn about the whole thing I got up and drank the avena (a shake made of oatmeal, cinnamon, water, and naranjilla, a fruit that’s kind of like a cross between a tart orange and a tomato) and set off for the race. The route was so beautiful! For a good part the moon was still out and the sun was rising over the mountains and the scenery in general was amazing. Plus there were tons of people on the street cheering. And I was on TV :) My mamá turned on the tv just as the guy who won the race was finishing and then they started showing clips of other parts of the course and she saw me passing the halfway point. Yep, as the winner was finishing the whole darn thing I was only halfway. But oh well. I made it in 2 hours 12 minutes and out of women 19-29 I came in 40-something but out of everyone I came in in the 1000’s somewhere. Besides, it was really fun and I still can’t even believe I ran the whole way. As a super-bonus not only do I have a cool t-shirt (albeit a pretty big one since they were all out of smalls by the time I finished) but also a bag that says Quito Media-Maraton on it and a medal. And of course I am keeping my number.
Inseminating rabbits: Apparently my animal nutrition and reproduction professor developed the technique for artificially inseminating rabbits as his master’s thesis (why you would want to artificially inseminate rabbits is a question I am still grappling with). The morning we were going to learn how to collect the semen samples the custodian had found the artificial vaginas we were going to use and not knowing what they were tossed them in the garbage. Fortunately this did not stop us. My professor quickly manufactured new ones from glue stick cases with the ends sawed off, the finger of a disposable rubber glove and some hot water.
Juanes Concert: So cool, we were on the field which meant we were very close to the stage and in such a dense mass of people that I couldn’t move enough even to lift my hand enough to scratch my nose. The acoustics were great though and I love Juanes’ music and he sang all my favorite songs so all in all it was a great first concert.
Friday, September 30, 2005
more photos!
http://community.webshots.com/user/ecornwe
Tuesday, September 27, 2005
a long overdue update from Ecuador
Papi and Paula at Mitad del Mundo
Mami and Paula
The university is amazing…a little, no very grandiose. There are tons of fountains all over the place and a lake (well, maybe a pond) filled with goldfish and koi. Needless to say I spend a lot of time at the pond staring at the fish. In addition to the carp, there are these black organisms that look like a cross between a tadpole and a fish larvae. I can’t find anyone who knows what they are.
Plaza at USFQ
School is a little bit different than I expected. My lit professor is crazily strict, the exact opposite of what Ecuadorian professors are stereotyped as. On the first day of class she instituted a one dollar fine for being able to see a cell phone, let alone if it rings in class. We also have to be in class every day or we can lose up to 10 percent of our grade in the class. And if we are more than five minutes late to class it will count as an absence. Fortunately, the subject matter of the class sounds really cool. Basically what we are studying is the literature that is passed through generations of campesinos in Ecuador and for a final project we have to collect stories from an area in the province of Pinchincha and record the storytellers and present them in class and enter them into a competition of sorts in the city.
My tropical ecology class is in English :( and the professor can be pretty annoying. He asks questions as if he wants to start a discussion but then has a very specific short answer in mind that usually doesn’t follow the question he asked at all. But the material in the class is super interesting, and we get to go on a lot of trips on the weekends. We are basically learning about the ecology of the vegetation types that occur at all the different elevations in Ecuador. Because of Ecuador’s unique landscape, the only tropical vegetation ecosystem it lacks is savannah (dry grasslands at low altitudes).
Ecoanthropology is very cool; I learned today that I am quite the reductionist as far as anthropologists go. That is, I seek tangible/material explanations for symbolic aspects of culture. For example, many indigenous cultures in the east of Ecuador practice infanticide of females because they need men to fight wars with other indigenous populations. Soon, since they have been killing all the females, they need females to produce more men so they capture females from other tribes spurring more wars. The rainforest of Ecuador, while very diverse, is not very easy to live in and can only support small populations of humans. So while a culturalist would argue that the widespread practice of female infanticide is a cultural anomaly, I as a reductionist would argue that the culture of female infanticide probably arose as a method of self-regulating the population.
My animal nutrition and reproduction class is amazing, too. The professor is really friendly and we just chat about nutrition for the class hour. Yesterday he brought in samples of foods commonly used to feed livestock in Ecuador and we got to try them so that we can recognize them by taste, smell, and appearance. In case you ever are faced with the choice to eat fish meal, you might want to consider declining. It is pretty gross. However, crystallized methionine (an amino acid) is really good—it’s kind of sweet and tastes almost like sugary cereal :). We have to bring 25 samples of animal food into class soon so a few days ago I embarked on a mission to find animal food. Stumbling across a factory, I began talking to the owner who ended up being friends with my professor and quickly agreed to give me samples. He was not so satisfied with my intended containers: snack sized Ziploc bags. Instead, he sent me to a local pharmacy for “jars with tops”. I tried to explain what I needed to the guard at the entrance to the pharmacy but he didn’t understand what I was looking for so in an attempt to think of another way to describe them the first thing that came to mind was urine sample containers. Fortunately, he knew what these were and quickly led me to the counter where I had the pleasure of asking the clerk for 25 urine sample containers. The look I received was unforgettable. As he returned with a large shopping bag filled with urine sample containers, he managed to muster up the courage to ask me why in the world I needed 25 but my explanation that it was for a class to collect food samples didn’t seem to clear things up. The owner of the factory and I had a good laugh about the whole experience later that afternoon.
Finally, I am taking a class at the veterinary school called veterinary histology and embryology. This is probably tied with nutrition as my favorite class. There are six students in the class, all first year Ecuadorian vet students and our professor is a young veterinarian who just graduated from veterinary school in Venezuela and we spend the hour looking at tissue samples from different parts of the body. I am probably going to start an internship with the professor’s husband who is a veterinarian specializing in chickens. Overall, classes here are a lot harder than I thought they would be and I am kind of mad at myself for that preconception because I feel like I the assumptions originated in part from a hidden belief that schools in Ecuador could not be as good as schools in the US. Granted, if I was taking classes in English, they would not be nearly as hard as they are at Kalamazoo College but they are definitely challenging.
Between settling in to the university and now, I have been to the zoo and touched Galapagos turtles, been cleaned by an indigenous healer, along with many other adventures, but those are stories for another day.
Galapagos turtles at the Quito zoo
So the real reason I started writing this letter was to describe an amazing trip with my medicinal plants class this weekend. My professor, Vlasti, smokes approximately a pack of malboro cigarettes daily and his skin clearly reflects his habit. He accompanies the cigarettes with copious amounts of coca cola (carried in his rubber boots while in the field) and coffee despite his doctors’ warnings against it (he has serious ulcers). He is extremely skinny because according to him he was bitten by a poisonous snake as a child and can’t gain weight. Despite his rather feeble appearance, he is quite adventurous. We left Friday afternoon to collect plants we will study for the rest of the semester. As we ascended to the páramo armed with pencils, field notebooks, plastic shopping bags and rubber boots it began to rain. Regardless, we all scrambled out of the bus and Vlasti’s supreme knowledge of plants began to impress me. He would pick out plants with medicinal properties and give us the family genus and species name as well as the common names and medicinal uses. Finally he would describe the identifying characteristics of the family so that I can now identify Asteraceae, Piperaceae, Solamanaceae and Euphoreae families with ease. In the páramo, I excitedly tested my rubber boots in knee-deep mud collecting Solamanaceae for people and became immune to the stinging power of nettles thanks to a prolonged wrestling match with the herb in which I finally emerged victorious with a two 20 cm sections of plant with flowers stuffed into my supermaxi shopping bag.
We began to descend into Guajalito, a cloud forest reserve owned by Vlasti and some friends, as the rain began to increase and the width of the road narrowed and pavement disappeared. Nevertheless, our bus (equipped with red and green Christmas lights, blue tasseled valences and several images of Jesus) valiantly traversed the mud at surprising speeds. After several hours, we arrived at a series of concrete buildings. That evening, we learned how to press our collected plants in a concrete room scattered with newspapers and discarded plants in various stages of decomposition. Much to our surprise, after a couple of hours of pressing, we were greeted by warm soup, spaghetti, and peaches by Rosa, a native of Guajalito. That evening, warmer and with full stomachs we went to bed with much anticipation of the next day when, according to Vlasti, we were going to get very dirty.
Between collecting plants, learning how to identify them, and scrambling up waterfalls while navigation through a maze of fallen logs and mud I realized I had found my favorite place in the world. The palms and piperaceae plants generally have leaves longer than my entire body, I spent the better part of the day inside a cloud, learned how to ward off bulls while eating lunch in the company of a small herd of cows, scaled a tree, swung from a vine over the edge of a cliff, and fell in love with my rubber boots. And Vlasti was right. After several falls in the mud, I did return dirty. After an entire day of collecting and hiking through the forest, we returned in the dark to press our plants. Honestly, I wasn’t looking forward to the hours it would take to press our collections but after the first few plants the process of positioning the plant just so it fit perfectly in the square of newspaper, adjusting the flowers and choosing a leaf to flip over became very calming and enjoyable.
Our final day I awoke well before the sun rose to embark on an expedition with some Ecuadorian students to see a lek of cock of the rock birds sing. We found the lek just before the female began calling the males and quietly listened to their songs. The birds are huge with brilliant red heads and necks and black bodies with white stains on their wings. Coloration aside, they rather resemble a rooster. On our way back we walked along the pipeline that runs from the Amazon to the refineries on the coast and I was surprised to find that the pipe was quite hot; apparently to keep the crude oil flowing. After rinsing off in a waterfall, we left Guajalito and descended further into a tropical rainforest in La Perla. Walking through a bananna plantation to arrive at the reserve, I picked a banana from the tree for a snack. While the size of the trees in La Perla definitely impressed me, I was most fascinated by the leafcutter ants who crossed the trail we were following several times.
Butressed roots in La Perla
Walking along the oil pipeline after bird watching in Guajalito
Sunday, July 31, 2005
it just gets worse...
Me: Hi, my health record number is 475 82 84 and I am calling because I was just bitten by a sea otter and I was wondering if there was any special treatment I should receive.
Nurse: You were bitten by what?
Me: A sea otter.
Nurse: Um, where did this happen, in the ocean?
Me: No actually all the wild sea otters in Oregon have disappeared due to overexploitation and the removal of their major food sources. This was, uh, at the Oregon Coast Aquarium in Newport.
Nurse: Um, what were you doing to get bitten?
Me: Oh, well I was on rounds with the veterinarian and….
Nurse: Well, I have no idea what you would do for a sea otter bite.
Me: Well do you think you could check with someone who knows. I don’t know if I would need antibiotics or a rabies vaccination or something else. I have been cleaning it with chlorhexidine scrub but I don’t know if there are other tings I should be worried about.
Nurse: Well honestly no one here would have any idea what you would need. We’re not used to seeing sea otter bites. I don’t think they are very common. I am looking at your record and it says here that yesterday you splashed formaldehyde in your eye. Is that right?
Me: Yeah that was me. It’s been a rough week. Well, thanks for your help. I will call back if I start to see signs of infection.
Nurse: Yeah, I guess that would be good. Bye.
Thursday, July 28, 2005
a stupid thing to do
Besides the scary contraption, the emergency room visit wasn't all that bad, though. My wonderful supervisor Pete sat patiently through the whole ordeal entertaining me and asking the nurses what if they would give me more saline to prolong the embarassing and painful situation I was in. The doctor was pretty cool, too. He quickly realized I was a geek and told me all sorts of cool stories about strange cases he had seen throughout his career and gave me the product information sheets for all the drugs I received so could read them tonight. Thanks to the other person helping with my eye flushing, the entire staff of Hatfield quickly knew about my accident and the story got embellished to the point where I pointed the syringe toward my eye and squirted the entire contents into my eye and there was some debate as to whether I got formalin or nitrofurasone or both into my eye. I think I spent a good portion of my day explaining what happened to people.
I spent the rest of the day at work, despite Pete's protests. I finished taking care of my fish and saw a seminar entitled: "snailfishes: why?" by the world expert on snailfishes. Where else can you eat cookies and drink tea and listen for an hour on someone's expeditions in the sub-artic searching for snailfishes? I love Hatifield :)
Tuesday, July 26, 2005
you gotta love research...
As far as fish go, this week has not been good. Everything was stable until Friday afternoon when I was gone and they started dying again. By Sunday they were dying faster than I could finish necropsies on them and neither Tim nor I could figure out anything. As a last result, we came up with two crazy theories and decided to treat the remaining fish in each of the two tanks with one of the treatments to see if any helped. Pete suggested that there might be toxins in the fresh water we were using to lower the salinity so in one tank we started to raise the salinity again and get rid of the fresh water. I suggested that maybe there was something to the parasites we were seeing occasionally on the skin of the fish so we treated the other tank with formalin. This morning, a day after treatment, the formalin-treated fish were all still alive and every fish in the higher-salinity tank except two had died. We quickly placed the other two fish in a formalin bath and hoped for the best. As of 5:30pm today, we had not lost any more fish but at this point it is pointless for me to continue with the rest of my experiment because the fish are obviously really stressed out and there will be way too many confounding variables. So I really don't know what I am going to do to show that I accomplished something with the grant I was given. Something to think about tonight, I guess. So goes the joys of research :)
Wednesday, July 20, 2005
the fortune cookie
A strange thing has been happening this week, though. I didn't run at all a week before my yellow fever/rabies vaccine but I was biking pretty much every day. I biked for a long time on Friday after finally getting back from my errands across Western Oregon then felt sick on Saturday so I didn't do anything. On Sunday, I went for a pretty long run that included a huge hill, but it wasn't any more difficult than other runs I have been doing this summer. I was really sore that evening and the next day--so much so that I had trouble walking because every step hurt so much--which was strange since I usually don't get very sore, even when I overexert myself. The next day, I was mad at myself for being sore so I ran the same route without the hill (making it 1.5 miles shorter and completely flat) thinking that warming up my muscles on something easy would be good for them. However, I was even more sore the next day. It's kind of scary--I have to use my arms to get out of chairs because my legs can't hold the weight. I didn't do anything yesterday then today I was still as sore as I was after my second run but I decided to run a flat course at lunch anyway. Then this afternoon I was just walking at the marina and fell because my leg basically collapsed from under me. So, I am getting pretty worried about what is going on and I wanted to know if anyone had any thoughts on it. I know I should probably stop running until it gets better and I am going to the doctor again for a booster of the rabies vaccination so I can ask the nurse then, but I have never been this sore/stiff in my life and I can't think of anything really strenuous I did to bring it on. I am kind of wondering if it has something to do with the vaccinations I got last Friday, but I don't know. Hmmm.....








